Casa Rosales

Casa Rosales

Thursday 3 May 2012

Cordoba

On Monday, we set off to see a house in a village in the south of Cordoba province - less than an hour away. On paper, the house was ours. It met all our critera and the owners needed to sell. It even had an apartment for visitors (Perpetua!) or for FR's parents to come and stay as long as they wanted. And a pool.

And it was really lovely. However, the village, full of beautiful houses, was only occupied to around 30% and that with people over the age of 60. Nothing wrong with that per se but on a day that was a school holiday, we saw only two children in two hours - the village was without life.

We went to the neighbouring village, where there were schools but that was even less inspiring. The children were with us and they agreed it was just too quiet. It made us realise again just how lively and bustling Alcala  la Real always is and how very difficult it will be to find anywhere quite like it.

So we decided we'd just have a day out instead, rather than make any life-changing decisions

And we drove to Cordoba.

Cordoba is the home of the famous Moorish Mezquita and wonderful Andalucian patios filled with flowers and sweet-smelling plants. It is on the River Guadalquivir and the roots of the city go back for centuries. The Romans were there building their ubiquitous walls, bridges and roads. Then the Arabs came, in around the 8th Century, expanding the Great Mosque and building the wonderful royal residence at Medina Azahara. In the 10th and 11th Centuries, Cordoba was said to be the most populated city in the whole world and was certainly the intellectual centre of Europe.


Around two hundred years later, the Christians arrived, the Moors left and things started to change. The Mezquita was only 'tweaked' - most of its Moorish insides were left pretty much intact, fortunately. The Christians did, however, expulse the Jews - a while after they'd got rid of the Moors -  and as time went on this led to a financial and economical decline - not helped another few centuries later by Napoleon's visit - a not entirely friendly occupation. Not until the 20th century did Cordoba manage to reestablish itself as a University city with an acknowledged historical centre, declared World Heritage by UNESCO.

Gorgeous patio photo courtesy of nh hoteles
We arrived from the south and drove across one of the many bridges into the city, finding ourselves on a wide, six-laned carriageway. Swept along by the traffic, we could see to our right the ancient town walls which we were eager to explore. At a large roundabout, we returned the way we came and found a most convenient carpark, with plenty spaces, right opposite the old walls. The rain - which had passed over us most of the morning - had stopped and the sun was warm.


As we crossed the road and headed down some steps, through a big, warm-coloured, sandstone arch, we entered a pedestrian zone where the scent of orange blossom on the trees almost lifted you off your feet with pleasure. The streets were cobbled and seemed to get narrower as we walked parallel to the river towards the Mezquita and the Mediaeval Jewish quarter. It was overwhelmingly beautiful, dramatic and yet peaceful and elegant - giving off, to me at least, the most wonderful positive vibes. I have been once before, almost seventeen years ago, with my mother-in-law. We visited the Mezquita and walked around the ancient streets where I remember feeling as though I could sense the intellectual vibrations from centuries ago - it felt like a very learned place. On Monday, it still felt learned but it felt like a city that had learned how to have fun with that too.

I have fallen in love with Cordoba - and whilst the comparison doesn't hold much water - it reminded me of another place I always loved to visit in the UK. It reminded me of York. The colours were different, the climate was very different (I've never been warm in York!) and the previous inhabitants have varied - theVikings brought a different culture to the Moors and left a different inheritance - but there was something of the same confidence of a city with a past; with a huge, imposing and impressive place of worship; with a wide, energy-giving river running through it; and with a constant stream of visitors walking its historic pavements smoother and keeping that sense of history alive.

I shall go back to Cordoba soon. This time, I WILL take my camera with me.


24 comments:

  1. I shall look forward to the extra photos, Annie, as these have given me just a tantalising taste of what is obviously a fantastic place. Glad you enjoyed your day out, even if the house with a Perpetua flat (LOL!) wasn't for you (or me.....)

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    1. I know you'd love Cordoba, Perpetua. When you come to visit, we'll go together! Axxx (Note to self, find house with a P place!)

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    2. LOL! That will make for an interesting list of must-haves for the new house, Annie. :-))

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  2. PS Thanks SO much for taking off the word verification,. Pxxx

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    1. You're welcome - I confess I didn't realise it was on as it doesn't apply to the author of the blog. Another reader asked me to remove it. Axx

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  3. Cordoba looks absolutely beautiful. And I love York too!

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    1. They both give me good vibes, Ayak and I'm sure if you love one, you'll love the other. Axxx

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  4. Please do. Cordoba sounds fascinating.

    Probably a very wise decision about the village. The right house in the right place is out there but perhaps it isn't on the market ... yet!

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    1. I guess there really is a reason they say location, location, location...I like to think ours is out there somewhere. Axx

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  5. Hello Annie:
    And so the search for that perfect family house goes on. But, progress is definitely being made as you seem all the time to be getting a clearer picture of what exactly you are looking for.

    Cordoba, from what you write, does sound to be a most magical place. Redolent with its historical influences, we are sure that we should like it too. And, in your search for the house, you are certainly discovering more and more of the wonders of Spain. Now that has to be a good thing!

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    1. Yes, Jane and Lance, the search continues but you are absolutely right - we are getting to see wonderful things in the process - it's a lovely country to explore with amazing changes of scenery at every turn. Right now, I am enjoying the search.
      Axxx

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  6. I am so pleased you were able to turn what could have been a depressing trip, recognising the house was not right,into such a positive day. Cordoba looks and sounds brilliant....and not too far away for you to make the next visit, armed with your camera. It's also made me think I fancy a quick run up to York (I'm back in England just for a few days for Jess's birthday). Jx

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    1. I am taking comfort in seeing nice houses for a change - we've seen so much rubbish, unfortunately mostly here in Alcala - so to have the chance to visit wonderful places as well is just the bonus. You would love Cordoba, I have no doubt at all, but do go to York again and look at it a little through my eyes too if you get the chance. I shall be most grateful! Axxx

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  7. Hello Annie

    I was so excited when I saw the heading to your post.

    Cordoba is high on my list of places to visit, so, your very positive post is so inspiring. I wonder, for instance, how easy it would be to get there by plane and train.

    I'm sorry to hear that this trip didn't turn-up the "right" new family home but you are certainly getting to see a lot of interesting places along the way.

    Anna

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    1. Hi Anna, well to start, I am sure you will love it! Getting there - Malaga airport is probably the best option though not sure about flights from where you are - Sevilla is also not too far away. From Malaga, it's just an hour or so on the train so quite accessible. And don't rush from Malaga either! So many people arrive at the airport and never venture into the beautiful city itself.
      Should decide to visit, I would be delighted to show you around!! Axxx

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  8. I adore Spain and Cordoba is one place I haven't been and would love to go. I watched the Hairy Bikers Bakeation last night - they were touring Spain's vast array of different regions - they missed out by not going to Cordoba thats for sure. Looks beautiful but then I have always loved the Moorish influrence over there. Just look at that incredible ceiling in your picture of the Mezquita - wow!
    Happy house hunting.
    Sophie

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    1. Thanks Sophie. I think Cordoba is very underrated in general, not just in Spain - you must visit next time you come. We will continue with the 'hunt'!
      Axx

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  9. Thank you so much for this Annie. It all seems so much more do-able now.

    Anna

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  10. Any chance of living in Cordoba?

    Mr. Fly was a student in Spain and then explored it for years - when the Costa beaches were populated only by cactus and goats.
    He loved Cordoba, and your photographs have him reminiscing happily.

    Many thanks.

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    1. We have added Cordoba to our hunting grounds.
      Spain must have been amazing before the Costas were totally spoilt and over run. There are still a few quiet coves and some quieter villages but not many.

      Glad he liked my Cordoba piece - there will be more pictures soon when we visit again. Which we will.
      Axx

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  11. I have always wanted to visit Cordoba ... thank you for letting me tag along here :D

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    1. It really was my pleasure, Annie - let me know when you want to go again - I'll gladly oblige! Axxx

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  12. Oh yes, please go back again with your camera! What a stimulating piece of writing. I feel that I must visit this area at some point. You very clearly convey the atmosphere of it. Can't wait to be lifted off my feet by the smell of orange blossom or to gasp with delight in front of those amazing stripy arches! Great post Annie, and very informational xxx

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  13. Hita - I know you'd love Cordoba; I don't know anyone not moved by its beauty and history. Promise I'll take my camera very soon. Axxx

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